Corrective MakeupWednesday, June 10, 2009
Makeup concealers hide spots, dark circles, pimples, scars and provide smooth-on, blend-in camouflage cover-up for skin flaws. At one time or another we all want to conceal some type of nasty imperfection on our face. Caking on makeup concealers will make the skin flaw stand out even more. Most flaws on our face are color-related flaws such as dark, bluish under-eye circles, blemishes or birthmarks to name a few. In order to mask the flawed color and make it less obvious, you need to use a neutralizing makeup corrector such as a green, yellow or purple concealer.
UNDERSTANDING NEUTRALIZING MAKEUP COLORS:
Neutralizing colors are colors that appear opposite on the color wheel. For example- blue neutralizes orange, green neutralized red and so on. So in order to cover red blemishes and blotchy skin, you must neutralize the color first with a green makeup concealer. Then, cover with foundation makeup. By just adding a typical colored makeup concealer, you won't conceal the problem because the red or blue tones will shine through. So you always need to neutralize the flaw first, then cover with your shade of foundation.
Makeup Color concealers are made typically in 3 color choices- green, yellow, and lavender (mauve). You need to understand which color concealer will neutralize the flaw. Look at the flaw you want to cover. What color is it? Is it acne (red) or under-eye circles (blue)? By identifying this first, you are now ready to conceal those nasty little imperfections! Here's a list of makeup color concealers and what they neutralize:
Yellow concealer: Used to conceal bluish bruises, under-eye circles and mild red tones on the face
Lavender concealer: Used to normalize yellow-colored skin imperfections such as sallow complexions and yellow bruises. It can also help conceal very dark under-eye circles and dark spots on bronze skin tones.
Green concealer: Used to neutralize red tones on the skin. Use this for covering blemishes, zits, red blotches, rosacea, port-wine stains
HOW TO APPLY CORRECTIVE COLOR CONCEALERS
Step 1 - Use a concealer brush to apply concealer. These brushes are made with tiny bristles and will cover them imperfection so it is virtually invisible. Let set.
Step 2 - Apply makeup concealer that matches the color of your skin tone over the layer of neutralizing concealer. (You can step this step if you choose and go straight to foundation application, but it is recommended to apply a neutral color concealer) Gently pat on a thin layer with makeup concealer brush. Feather out concealer slightly beyond the edges of the condition. Let set.
Step 3 - Follow with a foundation matched to your skin tone. Pat on foundation with a sponge or fingertips in a downward motion so you don't make the hairs on your face stand up. Be careful not to rub in the concealer. Let set. And apply powder.
TYPICAL SKIN FLAWS AND HOW TO NEUTRALIZE THEM:
Dark, Under-eye circles- A good concealer for dark circles under the eyes should have a yellow base. Yellow combats blue tones, which includes shadows and fine blood vessels near the surface of the skin.
Tattoos- Considering it is a blue tattoo, use a yellow concealer. Dab on the concealer, let set.You also will need to apply a good water-proof, heavy duty concealer that matches your skin tone perfectly. Try any dermablend concealer. They are heavy enough where as not to "budge". Apply a powder to help the make-up set and last longer.
Sallow, Yellow Complexions- You need to use what is called a primer (basically a concealer, but tends to be creamier in texture. Smashbox Photo Finish Color Correcting Foundation Primer is a revolutionary formula that helps fill in fine lines and even out discoloration for a seamless finish. Use a lavender based concealer/primer. There's two ways to apply this:
One- Use your fingertips to warm the primer, this way it will apply easier. Apply to entire face, let set. Next, apply a foundation by gently patting the foundation so you won't disturb the concealer. (this is a little too time consuming for me. Try step two for a quicker application.)
Two- Using the back of your hand as a make-up palette, scoop a little of the primer out of the compact and place it on the back of your hand. Use your fingertip to "warm" the concealer which will make it more pliable. Next, add some of your foundation to the primer by mixing it with your fingertips. Then apply as you would in a typical foundation application.
Dark Spots (aging spots and what not)- Use a yellow concealer.
Bruises- Yellow, brownish bruises can be covered by using a lavender concealer. Bluish-red bruises can be covered with a green concealer.
Acne, red blotchiness, rosacea- You want to use a green concealer. If the blemish is raised or has a flaky scale over it, you must be careful to blend well enough so the green can't be seen. Also, only layering on make-up can sometimes make the blemish stand out more. Use your best judgment.
Makeup of Model by Sabs Hernandez
Model: Camille Pratts
Product Shots courtesy of Google Images